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How to Winterize Your Pipes Before the Next Texas Freeze

By the Dallas Plumber team · Reviewed by Mark A. Farley, Responsible Master Plumber (TX #M-39682)
July 27, 2026·5 min read
Exposed home plumbing supply lines of the kind vulnerable to freezing

Why Texas Homes Lose the Freeze Fight

It feels strange to talk about freezes in the summer — but summer is exactly when you should winterize, because the materials are in stock, the schedule is open, and nobody is panicking. Anyone who lived through the February 2021 freeze remembers why: DFW homes are built for heat, with water lines run through unheated attics, exterior walls, and garages that homes up north would never allow. When a multi-day hard freeze arrives, those design choices become burst pipes — and after a big freeze event, every plumber in the metroplex is booked solid for weeks. The homeowners who prepared are the ones who didn't need us.

Water expands as it freezes, and in a closed pipe that expansion has nowhere to go. The pipe splits — often silently — and the flood arrives hours later when the ice thaws. That's why burst-pipe damage so often happens during the warm-up, when everyone thinks the danger has passed.

Start Outside: Hose Bibs

Outdoor faucets are the most commonly frozen fixture in DFW, and the most preventable.

  • Disconnect every garden hose before the first freeze. A connected hose traps water in the faucet body, and that water freezes back into the wall. This single step prevents more freeze damage than any other.
  • Cover each bib with an insulated faucet cover — the inexpensive foam domes work well.
  • If your home has interior shutoffs for the hose bibs, close them and drain the bibs for the season.
  • If a bib already drips or won't shut off fully, fix it before winter; a leaking bib feeds ice continuously. Our [outdoor plumbing](/services/plumbing/outdoor-plumbing/) crew handles hose bib replacements and frost-proof upgrades year-round.
  • Exposed Pipes: Attic, Garage, and Exterior Walls

    Walk your house like a cold draft would. Any water line you can see in an unconditioned space is a candidate for freezing:

  • Insulate exposed pipe runs in the attic, crawl space, and garage with foam pipe sleeves, paying extra attention to elbows and valves.
  • Water heaters and softener loops in garages: insulate the exposed hot and cold lines at the unit.
  • Seal air leaks near pipes — the gap where a line passes through a wall plate can blast freezing air onto it all night. Caulk and foam are your friends.
  • Open the garage as little as possible during a freeze, and never leave the door up overnight.
  • Pipes inside cabinets on exterior walls (kitchen sinks especially): open the cabinet doors during hard freezes so room heat reaches them.
  • Irrigation systems need their own winter protocol — shut off and insulate the backflow assembly, which sits above ground and freezes readily.
  • The Drip Protocol, Done Right

    When a hard freeze is forecast — especially multiple hours below the low twenties, or any stretch with power concerns — moving water is your insurance. Done right:

  • Drip both hot and cold sides, or set single-handle faucets to the middle. Hot lines freeze too.
  • Prioritize faucets on exterior walls and those farthest from where the water line enters the house, so water moves through the whole system.
  • A steady drip to a thin stream is the goal; it doesn't take much flow to keep water moving.
  • Keep the house heated day and night, even if you leave. Big overnight setbacks save pennies and risk pipes.
  • If the freeze will be long and severe, or the home will be vacant, the stronger move is shutting off the main and draining the lines entirely.
  • Know Your Main Shutoff Before You Need It

    This is the step that separates an incident from a disaster. Tonight — not during the storm — find your main shutoff. Most DFW homes have one near where the line enters the house, plus a city valve at the meter box by the street (a meter key from any hardware store operates it). Make sure the house valve actually turns; a shutoff that's seized open is no shutoff at all. Every adult in the house should know where it is. If a pipe does burst, closing that valve immediately is the difference between a repair and a renovation.

    If a pipe freezes, shut off the main, open the nearest faucet, and warm the area gradually — never with an open flame. If it has already split, that's a pipe repair call; and during freeze events, burst pipes go to the front of our line for the next available dispatch, just like any plumbing emergency.

    Want your home checked before the cold returns? Call (682) 900-4100 — our plumber will walk your vulnerable lines and quote any protection work at a flat rate you approve before anything starts.

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