The pipes most likely to freeze in a DFW home are the ones least protected from outside cold: exterior hose bibs, water lines running through uninsulated exterior walls, and supply lines in the attic, which sits right below the roof with minimal insulation between it and outdoor temperatures. Homes built for a mild climate often route pipe through spaces that would never be used for plumbing in a colder region, which is exactly why a hard freeze here does more damage per degree than the same temperature does further north.
If a faucet has slowed to a trickle or stopped during a freeze, you can try thawing the exposed section yourself — a hair dryer on low, warm (not hot) towels wrapped around the pipe, or simply raising the room temperature nearby all work. Never use a propane torch or other open flame near a pipe, especially inside a wall cavity; the risk of fire is real and it's how many freeze-related house fires start. If you can't see or reach the frozen section, or the pipe is inside a wall or ceiling, leave it alone and let it thaw on its own — forcing it is how pipes split. What we handle is the aftermath: if a line has burst, that is a repair we do at a flat rate, and the sooner the main is off the smaller it stays.
Watch for signs a pipe has already burst rather than just frozen: a sudden drop in water pressure once things warm up, water stains spreading on a ceiling or wall, or the sound of running water when nothing is turned on. If you suspect a burst, shut off the main water valve immediately — that stops the damage from getting worse while you call for repair. Prevention is straightforward and worth doing before the next hard freeze: disconnect and drain garden hoses, insulate exposed pipes in the attic and any exterior walls, and let faucets served by exterior walls drip slowly during a hard freeze to keep water moving. See our outdoor plumbing page for hose bib and exterior line protection, or our pipe repair page if a freeze has already caused damage.